Beloved by both New and Old World wine fans, Syrah is known for producing robust reds from France's Rhône Valley and racy, modern wines from Australia. The grape is also becoming more predominant in California, Washington state and even South Africa, where it is produced as a single varietal and part of Bordeaux blends under both the Syrah and Shiraz moniker.

It is the third most planted red grape variety in Washington state, according to the Seattle-based Washington Wine Commission. Its acreage has drastically increased in the past couple of years: 2,831 acres in 2006, up from roughly 2,100 in 2002 and 1,500 in 1999.

As a red grape, it is giving Cabernet Sauvignon a run for its money on the West Coast, with total tons crushed in California increasing from approximately 102,228 in 2008 from 22,017 tons in 1998, according to the Sacramento-based California Depart­ment of Food and Agriculture. It tends to have a spicy, food-friendly profile and can be easier and less costly to produce than both Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir.

Syrah-based wines "have lots of depth and richness, and particularly, when they are sparingly oaked, are very good with food," noted Seattle-based sommelier Jake Kosseff, owner of Kosseff Wine Consulting, who consults with a handful of restaurants--such as Crush and the Herb Farm. Many of his clients carry approximately 50 Syrahs, priced from $30 to more than $200.

Defining a Style
Syrah is produced all over the world and is used in such a wide array of blends that it's difficult to pinpoint its typical flavors. Kosseff said that his clients tend to use more of the lesser-oaked versions of these wines as "Syrah is capable of having the richness that oak gives to many wines without oak." He added that "there's an increasing comfort level among winemakers for making less oaky Syrah, which is a great way to show off the grape's natural spiciness and richness, and makes it much more of a natural with food."

George Miliotes, master sommelier and beverage and hospitality director for both the eight-location Seasons 52 and 36-location Capital Grille--both part of the Orlando, Florida-based Darden Restaurants--also thinks many Syrahs are being made in a more balanced style that pairs well with food. He added, though, that that style of Syrah has been slow to evolve. Miliotes carries eight to 10 Syrahs on his main list at Capital Grille and another six to eight on the reserve. They are priced from $30 to $250 a bottle. Seasons 52 carries about 10, (primarily Australian) Syrahs on its list.

Because Syrah is produced in so many styles, some restaurateurs see a disparity in what consumers say they want from the wine and what they are actually drinking. "People ask for and want the richer, earthier, more extracted styles; yet when you look at the volume of what actually gets drunk and sells, it's the more elegant, restrained and easy-drinking styles that do better," said Sean Diggins, sommelier at San Francisco bistros Café Claude and Gitane Restaurant. Café Claude carries eight Syrahs, priced from $8 a glass to $68 a bottle; and Gitane carries a handful of Syrahs, priced $36 to $68.

Christopher Bates, general manager and sommelier at the four-room Inn at Dos Brisas, a modern American restaurant in Washington, Texas, said that the funky, earthy and rustic styles of Syrah are his best sellers although he added he has little request for the grape. He carries more than 100 wines that contain Syrah, priced from $30 to $900 a bottle. He noted that, thankfully, the grape is stylistically coming into its own. "I have seen more producers respecting it as a unique grape instead of using it as a Cabernet [Sauvignon] substitute," he said. This is a change in attitude that he welcomes. When a producer's focus is primarily on "huge structure, full body, sweet fruit and creamy oak, then why would anyone drink Syrah? Cab is easier to order and find," he said.

As Syrah evolves into its own taste profile and distinguishes itself from Cabernet Sauvignon, it is also continuing to create a unique domestic wine flavor profile for itself, distinct from Australian sibling Shiraz. Capital Grille's Miliotes added that "Syrah is currently, and for the future, still trying to break out of the shadow of Shiraz. The Aussies have perfected making tasty, albeit basic, Shiraz for extremely favorable prices." Many domestically-produced Syrahs and Syrah-based blends cost much more than their Australian counterparts, and they are often made in a more serious and structured style.

Top Competition and the Syrah Drinker
Syrah has the advantage of being able to compete with both intense, tannic wines and cool climate elegant ones depending on how it is produced. "Syrah is still thought of in its full-bodied sense; and as such, in people's minds, it goes up against the other big guns. However, there is much to be said about the comparison between Syrah and Pinot Noir, particularly in the sense of complex aromatics and potentially elegant wines," said Kosseff.

While the grape is attracting more and more attention, it's still not always an easy sell. "Syrah is still an interesting category, so it does not sell itself as well as the other popular categories," said Amy Currens, wine director and bars manager of the 550-room Inter­Continental SOMA in San Francisco. She carries 10 Syrahs on her lists, priced from $50 to $90. She added that Pinot Noir lovers can often be easily "turned on to a good, well-balanced Syrah."

Many restaurants say that their guests who order Syrah tend to be more wine-savvy than those who instinctively go for other varietals. Many seem to know that it is one of the great Rhône Valley red grape varieties; and some will associate it positively with upscale appellations like Côte-Rôtie while others may trace it to inexpensive Côtes-du-Rhônes.

Better Marketing and Better Value in the Bottle
The fame and marketing machine, as well as the ratings, behind both Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir have continued to drive prices up, making Syrah a comparatively well-priced alternative. "Syrah is often cheaper than Cabernet Sauvignon of the same quality, and value has become increasingly important," said Kosseff. He added that when he is seeking out particularly interesting and well-priced Syrahs, he will often look to the cooler parts of Southern France and noted that the grape makes good wines across many price-points.

Dos Brisas' Bates also has luck selling Syrah to customers who want big-bodied wines for less than the price of a Cabernet Sauvignon. He said he will often steer people who want to spend less than $100 a bottle to both Syrahs and Zinfandels, over Cabernet Sauvignons.

One of the factors that may be keeping prices down is also how much Syrah has been planted over the past decades. "Thank goodness that Syrah lends itself to being a good blending grape as well," said Gitane's Diggins.

Where the Grape is Headed
"In less than 10 years, Syrah will be just as important as the other major red grapes to American drinkers," predicted Kosseff. "It will share equal footing with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir and Zinfandel--and may even pass some of these up."

The grape's adventurous reputation may also help it to succeed in the future. Syrah, according to Dos Brisas' Bates, is consumed by "Bad Asses. It is something of an against-the-grain/ rebel grape. They are also the type who ride motorcycles on the weekend and cut the filters off their Marlboros."

Between its rich history and flexibility of style, Syrah is destined to continue to generate interest as a great food wine as a single varietal and in blends. wbm